Tasting & Living #20 May 2012
A Brussels based foodie blog-magazine with an international and healthy appetite … tastingandliving@hotmail.com
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Edible Flowers: a Glimpse of Spring on Your Table
May 15, 2012
As the latest trend in haute cuisine, edible flowers have brought new botanical species to our plates. But if this is a recent discovery for foodies, the world’s great chefs have been using flowers as ingredients for more than a decade now: from rose petals to lavender, to more reassuring flowers like those of thyme, dill, coriander, chives or violets.
In the kitchen, flowers get used in the preparation of salads, gelatins, soups, flans, desserts and ice creams, and their use is not solely decorative: each one adds a unique, precise flavour to a dish. Calendula, for example, is slightly spicy; violet adds scent to everything; begonia has a citrus flavour and some spices like cloves can be immersed in wine, caramelized or used as decoration for cakes. And chrysanthemum flowers will add a pleasant bitter bite to your delicacies.
Anyone who’s ever had the good fortune to try a dish called Water Lilies from Ferran Adrià of elBulli, will probably never forget the experience, or walk through a garden in the same way: cashews are served over a soup of tea, geranium leaves and begonia flowers. When it comes to botanical cuisine, Spain’s chefs have been leading the way. “If I want rosemary I can use its flowers, which have a fabulous aroma, rather than rosemary as such. Another thing we like about them is their texture,” the Catalan chef Andoni Luis Aduriz, who’s been using edible flowers for years, has said. And its phrase that perfectly sums up the philosophy of those who go grocery shopping in the garden. This kind of approach is why flowers are so perfectly suited to the new kind of avant-garde cooking that seeks to satisfy all senses, not just our sense of taste.
Much more than just a “touch of colour” or a passing fad, starred chefs also use edible flowers as a tool for communication. In 1990, two French chefs, each with three Michelin stars, Michel Bras and Marc Veyrat began experimenting with flowers in order to safeguard a philosophy of cuisine that emphasizes the environment and sustainability. Themes that we all know well now, but that seemed almost radical twenty years ago.
Although really, nothing comes from nowhere: if we think of our grandparents or great-grandparents, it’s not hard to imagine them gathering nature’s bounty and bringing it to the table. And besides, botanically, vegetables like broccoli, cauliflower and even artichokes are all actually flowers. The precious spice, saffron, is comes from the stamen of the crocus, and capers come from the flowers of this Mediterranean bush. Before trying your hand at experimentation, however, remember to wash flowers carefully before eating, don’t use anything bought at a florist’s, and don’t gather from the sidewalks. Use only the petals, and throw away the green parts. The darker ones are usually organic and are easily ordered online.
But how should you use them if you’re not necessarily a great chef? The easiest way is to mix them into a salad and dress to your liking. Just one last tip: the best moment to pick them is in the early morning, when the dew has just formed on the petals. Place them gently in a basket as if they were made of crystal. It will do you good both for your spirit as your mind.
Roberta Schira
Time for picnics …
May 6, 2012
Brusselicious is starting their picnic series this weekend. However if the weather plays up; then what?
Order your own hamper from Fortnum & Mason.
It has all the essentials you may need for an impromptu lunchette; a potted Stilton (This Nottinghamshire version of the ‘King of Cheeses’ is creamy and sweet with a heavily veined texture and predictably full flavour. From the last family-owned Stilton producer in the UK, this cheese can be made only with milk from the three ‘Stilton counties’ – Derbyshire, Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire. Rich, full-bodied and irresistible, it is potted in a Fortnum & Mason traditional ceramic jar. Perfect for entertaining and divine when served with Fortnum’s LBV Port.), a bottle of 1er cru Butteaux Vieilles Vignes, Louis Michel (The vines for this cuvee were planted in 1954… With its exceptional location, with vertical roots plunging deep into the ground, its yield is slowing reducing year after year. It opens with notes of concentrated milk, acacia flowers and licorice. In the mouth, sea breeze aromas lead to a warm finish with jam and peach, cooked apples and fruit tart.) and Fortnum’s famous pickles.
This is the Belgravia hamper, for the select few (of course) at 500£.
Hveder at the Danish Great Prayers Day
May 4, 2012
From 1686 – following the Reformation – a special Danish holy day was introduced to be observed in the entire Kingdom. Thus it was given a special status in comparison with more local holidays. was intended to be a day of prayer and fasting, to be celebrated always on the 4th friday after Easter.
As many holy days some culinary traditions have also developed. Apparently, the so-called Hveder - wheat buns – were introduced because like everybody else also the bakeries did not work on the Great Prayer Day. So the day before – a thursday – they would bake these special small buns called Hveder, which are very taste when toasted the following day.
There are many regionally based recipes for Hveder but what better to use than the recipe of Claus Meyer – part owner of Noma, the best restaurant of the world – as published on his website:
The best result is achieved by starting the day before with a “pre dough” by mixing 200 g flour, 2 dl water and 10 g yeast. You mix the ingredients and leave them in the fridge for 24 hours. You can leave this part out, but it gives an added taste to the buns.
For the main dough you start by toasting 10 g of cardamom pods on the pan and grind the seeds to powder – alternatively you use already powdered cardamom. You mix 2 dl of tepid water, 2½ dl of tepid milk and 20 g of yeast, dissolving the yeast. You add 2 eggs, 15 g salt and 50 g cane sugar to the liquid, You add the cardamom powder and 1-1,2 kg wheat flour. If you have made the small dough the day before you add it now. If you didn’t you just continue mixing the ingredients, adding the amount of flour that makes the dough sleek and easy to handle – a couple of minutes. You add 50 g of soft butter – possibly even more if you like butter. You continue working the dough for 5-8 minutes.
Let the dough rise for 2 hours, roll it into a long sausage and split it in 20 small pieces which you form into buns. You put the buns together in a pan, but with space between them – and you leave them to rise another 2-3 hours unto double in size and the buns are touching each other. This gives them a brown top, but soft sides, when baked.
You bake them for 12-15 minutes at 220 C and leave them to cool.
When serving them you halve the buns and you toast them in the oven or on the toaster. They are best eaten with butter. Personally I love them with butter and honey. Cinnamon butter is also delicious.
Try them – a delicious Danish tradition!
Soren
Like this:
Lamb and hay?
March 26, 2012
Cooking with hay/foin/hooi
Hay can of course contribute to cooking by providing heat or as a nesting place for slow cooking, by leaving the pot nested in a bunch of hay for hours.
But much more interesting is to use hay for its original purpose: to provide taste. The animals we eat, usually feed on hay. So the taste of the meat we eat originates in hay. So to use hay as a taste ingredient when cooking is really not that strange.
Meat of lamb is well suited for this. A leg of lamb or a shoulder.
The hay can be any hay, but different kind of hay gives different taste. You can find hay in pet stores. Some have a selection, even a ecological choice, which is a good choice for cooking. But any hay will do. You can also add a more fragrant plant to the hay, such as lavender, rosmary etc.
The process is simple. You take your piece of meat (typically around 2 kgs), your hay, a frying pan, an oven pan, an ½ liter of stock (lamb, veal, chicken). You brown the salted and pebbered meat in the pan on all sides in oil/butter – take your time to get a nice, caramelised surface.
Transfer the piece of meat to the oven pan. Now the hay comes into play.
Its best to have soaked it a while in water, brings out the taste and makes it less burned at the edges. Now you cover the piece of meat with the hay, making sure it is well covered. You pour in the stock and put the pan in the oven at around 220 C for 1½-2 hours.
You will see that the meat has cooked well in the hay, staying moist. And you will taste that the taste of green pastures and summer days in the country have been enhanced in the taste of the meat. And you will have a stock that you can use to make a sauce tasting of green meadows and spring.
Enjoy
Soren
St Patrick’s day, so what should you eat?
March 15, 2012
Our favourite American cook Kristinna Vanni has come up with a great list for this weekend’s St.Patrick’s Day.
How will you be celebrating St. Patrick’s Day this weekend? Corned beef and Cabbage, a potato dish, or maybe just a Shamrock Shake?
Once a year we all have a little “Luck ‘O the Irish” and enjoy indulging in festive foods. I have assembled this list of my favorite St. Patrick’s Day inspired recipes. For more ideas, be sure to stop by our St. Patrick’s Day Recipes group!
10: Irish Coffee
This drink was actually invented in San Francisco, but it is a fun way to enjoy a bit of Irish Whiskey any time of day!
9: Chocolate Cherry Guinness Cake with Cocoa Beer Frosting
Guinness Beer adds a bit of Irish flair to this frosted chocolate cake.
8: Homemade Shamrock Shake
No need to swing by the drive-thru when you can make this minty shake at home!
7: Corned Beef Panini with Horseradish Mayonnaise
This recipe is a great way to use up leftover corned beef in the days after your St. Patrick’s Day celebration.
6: 3-Ingredient Irish Shortbread
With only three ingredients, this traditional shortbread recipe couldn’t be easier!
5: Irish Soda Bread
St. Patrick’s Day isn’t complete without a warm loaf of Irish Soda Bread.
4: Shamrock Rice Krispies Treats
Green frosting and a shamrock cookie cutter transforms the classic Rice Krispie Treat into a festive snack.
3: Potato, Cheese and Mushroom Pie
If you are looking for a new way to enjoy potatoes on St. Patrick’s Day, this savory potato pie is one of my favorites.
2: Slow Cooker Irish Oatmeal
Steel-cut Irish Oats are a great choice for a healthy and hearty breakfast. This recipe is easily prepared in the crock-pot!
1: The Naughty Leprechaun
This is my favorite St. Patrick’s Day recipe for the name alone! It is an adult version of the Shamrock Shake. Be sure to check out the video demo on the link as well. Cheers!
More cheerful recipes on : http://www.betterrecipes.com/blogs/daily-dish/2012/03/14/top-10-recipes-for-st-patricks-day/
Hopscheuten zijn er weer!
February 29, 2012
Het is weer zover : hopscheuten tijd!
De delicate scheut die elk jaar in maart met recordprijzen in de beste borden van de beste restaurants liggen, zijn nu ook in de supermarkt te krijgen. Vanaf morgen kan je in sommige Delhaizes van Brussel de delicatesse vinden. De prijs? Ongeveer 13€ per 100 gram.
Ze komen van Roeselaere, waar er een grote culinaire traditie is van koken met deze delicate stengeltjes.
Ieder scheutje moet met de hand worden geknipt en een kilo opbrengst duurt uren. Door de strenge vorst is er heel weinig oogst dit jaar vandaar die hoge prijzen.
De boeren vinden het niet zo een goed idee dat ze in supermarkten te krijgen zijn omdat deze scheuten geteeld werden in serres en dat komt de kwaliteit niet ten goede, naar het schijnt.
De ‘andere’ zijn pas beschikbaar vanaf 10 maart. We gaan in ieder geval de ‘supermarkt’ variant proberen en laten jullie weten of het de moeite was.
Food Festival Paris 11-13 march 2012
February 28, 2012
Du 11 au 13 mars 2012, le OMNIVORE WORLD TOUR, le festival référent des chefs, s’installe pour la première fois à Paris et investit la Maison de la Mutualité. Retour aux sources dans une capitale qui cuisine mieux que jamais !
Au programme, 3 jours exceptionnels, 50 démonstrations essentielles pour comprendre l’époque, des dizaines de tastings, les meilleurs partenaires de la restauration, L’Omnivorious Party, des découvertes, comme le film « Entre les bras » diffusé en avant première…
Au rendez-vous : Michel Troisgros, Anne-Sophie Pic, Michel et Sébastien Bras,
Alexandre Gauthier, Alexandre Bourdas et cinquante chefs et pâtissiers invités à l’expérience unique du plus grand show culinaire de France.
Programme :
LES MASTERSCLASS SALÉ @ Grand Auditorium de la Mutualité.
Pas de festival sans chef de cuisine. Pas de festival sans une programmation pointue !
25 chefs se partagent cette année la scène du festival salé.
DIMANCHE 11 MARS 2012
10h00-10h35: Guillaume Salvan (La Falaise, Cahuzac-sur-Vère, France)
10h40-11h15: Dave De Belder (De Godevaart, Anvers, Belgique)
11h30-12h05: Ryan Clift (Tippling Club, Singapour)
12h05-12h40: David Vincente Loyola & Co (Aux Deux Amis, Paris)
14h45-15h20: David Toutain (Agapé Substance, Paris, France)
15h25-16h00: John Fraser (Dovetail, New York, Etats-Unis)
16h15-16h35: Remise des Omnivores
16h40-17h15: Isaac McHale, James Lowe (The Young Turks, London)
17h20-17h55: Eneko Atxa (Azurmendi, Bizkaia, Espagne)
18h00-18h35: Alexandre Gauthier (La Grenouillère, Montreuil-sur-Mer, France)
LUNDI 12 MARS 2012
10h00-10h35 Ignacio Mattos (Isa, New York, Etats-Unis)
10h40-11h15 Patrice Gelbart (Le Verre volé, Paris, France)
11h30-12h05 Lorenzo Cogo (El Coq, Marano Vicentino, Italie)
12h05-12h40 Guillaume Foucault (LʼArtémise, Uzès)
14h45-15h20 Dominique Crenn (Atelier Crenn, San Francisco)
15h25-16h00 Davy Schellemans (Veranda, Anvers, Belgique)
16h35-17h10 Josean Martínez Alija (Nerua, Bilbao, Espagne)
17h15-17h50 Giovanni Passerini (Rino, Paris, France)
17h55-18h45 « Transmettre » avec Sébastien
19h00-21h15 Avant-première du film « Entre les Bras »
MARDI 13 MARS 2012
10h00-10h35 Alexandre Bourdas (Sa.Qua.Na, Honfleur, France)
10h40-11h15 Morgan McGlone (Australie)
11h30-12h05 Derek Dammann (DNA, Montréal, Canada)
12h05-12h40 Anne-Sophie Pic (Maison Pic, Valence, France)
14h45-15h20 Quique Dacosta (Quique Dacosta Restaurante, Dénia, Espagne)
15h25-16h00 Felipe Bronze (Oro Restaurante, Rio de Janeiro, Brésil)
16h15-16h50 Ronny Emborg (AOC, Copenhague, Danemark)
16h55-17h30 Michel Troisgros (Maison Troisgros, Roanne, France)
Normandische pannenkoeken op ‘vette dinsdag’
February 21, 2012
Tijd voor pannenkoeken voordat Vasten begint! Hier is een klassiek gerecht, de appeltjes erbij vinden we echt wel lekker dus proberen maar!
Ingrediënten:
• 250 g bloem
• 500 ml melk
• 4 eieren
• 25 g gesmolten echte boter
• suiker
• 2 appelen
Hoe de pannenkoeken maken:
1. Meng alles voor het pannenkoekenbeslag.
2. Haal het klokhuis uit de beide appelen.
3. Snijd de appelen in schijfjes.
4. Bak ze aan in de boter.
5. Overgiet dit met het beslag.
6. Bak de pannenkoek langs beide zijden mooi bruin.
7. Overstrooi met wat suiker en wat extra boter.
8. Karameliseer deze zijde in de pan.
How to make rye and beer porridge – and why?
February 16, 2012
Our dear friend Klaus Bondam is reporting on his ‘cold weather’ remedy:
It is winter and freezing cold.
Not only here in Brussels, but also in my home country Denmark. It is snowing, people are struggling to stay upright on the icy and slippery streets, and dressing up to keep warm. Everything is like it usually isn’t. In political terms it is a little bit the same.
The economy in Europe is under tremendous pressure and many places in Europe see a growing mistrust in the European project. Right now Denmark has the presidency in the EU. Not necessarily an easy task these days.
But on the other hand; the presidency is also our chance to present a large cultural program here in Brussels. Last week a major exhibition of Per Kirkebys – the grand old man of Danish contemporary art – paintings opened at BOZAR. Dogme-films – and documentaries – will also be shown and a large classical concert with internationally renowned Concerto Copenhagen. And do not miss the young super-star architect Bjarke Ingels (BIG) talk ‘Yes is More’ on BOZAR on March 20. Check out the full program at www.dkibenelux.org – and see background info on www.eu2012.dk/culture.
I would like to present a very traditional dish for you – rye and beer porridge. It suits the times. I remember it from my childhood on a farm at the countryside as ‘january-and-february-food’. We’d spent to much money during the holiday seasons, and now is the time to spend a little less. I remember my mother doing it with almost to old – left over – rye bread. It is cheap, but it is great. And should work here in Belgium; the land of beers! PS. You can find German rye bread in most supermarkets here in Brussels.
Here is what it takes;
300g rye bread that is a couple of days old, 1 tsp grated lemon zest, 200ml light or alcohol-free beer, 100g brown sugar
1. The day before, place the bread in a bowl, cover with 800ml water, and leave overnight.
2. Next day, place the contents of the bowl in a pan and slowly bring to the boil. Stir well, add the lemon zest, beer and sugar, boil, and keep stirring for 5 minutes.
3. Serve warm with cold skimmed milk.
Tip: You can serve this as a dessert with whipped cream.
I have borrowed the recipe from my good friend Trina Hahnemanns ‘The Nordic Diet – eat you way to health and happiness’
Klaus Bondam
February 12. 2012.
From Canada, with love
February 13, 2012
In het kader van een reeks initiatieven ter bevordering van de Canadese gastronomie in 2012 werken de ambassade van Canada en de hotels Sofitel Brussels “Europe” en Sofitel Brussels “Le Louise” samen om van 13 tot 17 februari e.k. enkele van de belangrijkste producten van de Canadese gastronomie onder de aandacht te brengen.
‘s Middags en ‘s avonds zullen de chefs van Sofitel Brussels Le Louise en Sofitel Brussels Europe volgens hun smaak en creativiteit een menu samenstellen met vier Canadese producten met wereldfaam: kreeft, rund, bizon en zwarte kabeljauw (“sablefish”).
Een samenwerking tussen Sofitel en de ambassade van Canada lag voor de hand. Sofitel Europe verwelkomt immers talrijke Canadese delegaties en de chef van Sofitel Le Louise, dhr. Tjaco van Eijken, maakt deel uit van de delegatie van Franstalige chefs die uitgenodigd zijn om hun culinaire ervaringen te delen met chefs uit Québec, tijdens het evenement “Montréal en lumière”. Dit evenement zal van 16 tot 26 februari plaatsvinden in Montréal, met speciale aandacht voor de gastronomie uit Wallonië en Brussel. “We zijn verheugd van het prestige en de uitmuntendheid van Sofitel te mogen genieten om deze prachtige producten voor te stellen en de kwaliteit van onze landbouw te tonen”, aldus Zijne Excellentie de Heer Louis de Lorimier, ambassadeur van Canada in Brussel.
Vier producten in de schijnwerpers
Tijdens deze week zullen de chefs van Sofitel Europe en Sofitel Le Louise de meest befaamde producten van de Canadese gastronomie in de schijnwerpers plaatsen: kreeft uiteraard, maar ook rund, bizon en een grote nieuwigheid voor het Belgische publiek: zwarte kabeljauw.
De zwarte kabeljauw leeft in de diepe wateren van de Noordelijke Stille Oceaan, op een diepte van 300 tot 2700 m. Deze soort onderscheidt zich door zijn donkere, fluweelachtige huid en zijn parelwitte vlees. Zijn hoge gehalte aan olie en in het bijzonder aan omega-3 zorgt voor een zachte textuur en een rijke en smeuïge smaak. Dankzij zijn smaak en zijn delicate vlees, dat gemakkelijk loskomt, is deze vis zeer gewild bij koks en prijsbewuste consumenten.
Bizon behoorde al tot de basisvoeding ten tijde van de precolumbiaanse beschavingen in Noord-Amerika. De bizon was met uitsterven bedreigd aan het einde van de 19e eeuw, maar in het begin van de jaren ’90 slaagden Canadese fokkers er weer in om een aanzienlijke kudde op te bouwen. Sindsdien is de bizonpopulatie blijve toenemen, tot zo’n 250.000 exemplaren op dit moment. In tegenstelling tot het ruwe beeld dat de wilde Canadese bizon met zijn dikke vacht oproept, is het vlees fijn, mager en zeer lekker. Een plezier voor geoefende smaakpapillen.
Het Canadese rund is het resultaat van Britse en Europese rassen, befaamd om de superieure kwaliteit van hun vlees. Tot de populairste rassen in Canada behoren Angus, Hereford, Charolais en Simmental. Deze rassen zijn bekend om hun doorregen, mals en smakelijk vlees. Hoe komt Canada tussen de beste producenten van rundvlees ter wereld terecht? Het recept is eenvoudig: om te beginnen zijn de kalveren die moeten worden vetgemest afkomstig van met zorg geselecteerde ouderdieren. Ze groeien op in een propere en natuurlijke omgeving en krijgen de beste granen, die een uitzonderlijke kwaliteit en smaken garanderen.
De Canadese kreeft hoeft ongetwijfeld niet meer te worden voorgesteld, vooral niet aan de Belgen, die er wereldwijd het meest verzot op zijn. De zuivere en koude wateren van Canada garanderen hun kwaliteit en de duurzame en gecontroleerde vangst zorgt ervoor dat ze in overvloed aanwezig zijn. Dit is ongetwijfeld de reden waarom deze Canadese lekkernij wereldwijd zo vermaard is.
Om deze typisch Canadese producten, bereid door de getalenteerde en creatieve chefs van het Sofitel, te ontdekken en te proeven, kunt u uw tafel reserveren in: Sofitel Brussels Europe (van 13 tot 17 februari) Restaurant BE Jourdanplein 1 – 1040 Brussel Reservaties op 02 235 51 00 en Sofitel Brussels Le Louise (alleen van 14 tot 16 februari !) Restaurant CRYSTAL LOUNGE Guldenvlieslaan 40 – 1050 Brussel Reservaties op 02 514 22 00
Boerenkool, chou frisée, kale (or borecole)
February 9, 2012 — 1 Comment
It is the season for this vegetable, which tastes best after some days of frost. But Boerenkool is also one of the forgotten vegetables, which had its first popularity with the Egyptians 4000 years ago who knew to appreciate the richness of minerals and vitamins in this vegetable.
From Egypt it made its way north and was earlier a good stable food in German inspired kitchens, such as the southern part of Denmark, where it is still a speciality. But it has lost its prominent place in the North European kitchen and can be difficult to find fresh in the shops. Boerenkool can often be found chopped and frozen, but why not take advantage of the frosty season and buy a fresh boerenkool. I have seen it in Delhaize and in different biological food shops in Bruxelles.
You work your way to the top of the big main stalk and pull of the leaves, leaving the biggest of the stems as they will be too tough to eat. You need to wash the leaves well, as the curly leaves and hide lots of grit.
Young boerenkool can be eaten raw, but I prefer it cooked. But do not cook it for too long. Boerenkool is cooked very quickly, and as for other vegetables the longer you cook the more vitamins and minerals you loose. So one good way of preparation is just to chop the fresh boerenkool and fry it in olive oil on the pan with nutmeg, salt and pepper.
However, as I have described before, what I like with cabbage is the ability of this family of vegetables to take up other tastes and blend it with its own taste of cabbage and end up with some of the most complex and delicious taste combinations imaginable. Inspired by a recipe in the book “Verdens Beste” (the worlds best) by Eyvind Hellstroem – a leading top chef in Norway – in which the French chef Yannick Alleno from Le Meurice in Paris works with Norwegian salmon and boerenkool, I made the boerenkool with bacon, sherry and zest of orange. Leaving it to simmer in its juices. A sublime combination that brought out all the best in the boerenkool.
Love macarons!
February 2, 2012
To celebrate this day of love and friendship, Ladurée has designed a precious gift box featuring stylised motifs tied up with a dainty velvet ribbon and sealed with a heart. The six macarons inside have a surprising flavour: pink grapefruit combined with vanilla.
